Review: Warre’s Otima Tawny Port 10 Years Old and 20 Years Old (2009)
Eschewing traditional design — those white-stenciled bottles look cool but they’re certainly not “modern” — for a more contemporary approach, Warre’s Otima line aims to “change the perception of Port” through new packaging. What’s inside the bottles is different too, a tawny Port with a lighter structure that Warre positions as good for drinking any time, not just after ingesting 20 ounces of prime rib. (Warre’s even suggests drinking them chilled!)
Here’s how the two Otima bottlings — both sold in sleek 500ml decanters — stack up.
Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny Port – Really light in color; to the casual eye you’d might think it was table wine, not Port. The taste is, for the most part, classic tawny, with a strong cherry kick and a moderate finish. Certainly lighter in body than many tawnies I’ve tried, but not overwhelmingly so. Not sure I’d drink it before dinner, but it does make for a nice digestif. A- / $22 (500ml)
Warre’s Otima 20 Year Tawny Port – Color is noticeably darker here but still not too deep. Much more tart and slightly sweeter than the 10 Year, almost like the 10’s sweet cherries have turned sour. Drinkable, but actually not as outright pleasant as its younger brother. B / $35 (500ml)