Review: Tequila Gran Dovejo
This new highland tequila is a single-estate spirit, double-distilled in copper alembic stills. It is, of course, from 100% blue agave… the pinas of which are “fermented with the use of champagne yeast while the harmonious sounds of music play in the background as this is found to optimize the sugar conversion.” Hmmm.
We tasted all three of the traditional expressions. All are 80 proof.
Tequila Gran Dovejo Blanco – Unaged and unrested. A really delightful and unique blanco. Very smooth for a silver, it offers surprising sweetness, almost butterscotch in its character. Long, smooth, and lightly herbal finish — it fades into rosemary and bay leaf character in the end. A great sipping tequila for those who like the punch of herbs but don’t like the harshness that often comes along with them. A / $47
Tequila Gran Dovejo Reposado -Aged 6 to 9 months. A touch of wood changes this tequila quite dramatically, pumping it up with cinnamon and allspice notes, further increasing the sweetness, and giving it a bit of a Mexican chocolate character on the finish. This is quite a departure from the relatively delicate Blanco, bold, punchy, and aggressive. Enjoyable but striking in its own way — and perhaps a bit on the brutish side. A- / $53
Tequila Gran Dovejo Anejo – Aged 1 to 3 years (quite a range!). Here, the caramel and vanilla take over — often the case with anejo tequilas — and the herbs (both the Blanco’s green ones and the Reposado’s brown ones) are drowned out with the flavors of flan. Nothing wrong with that, and this is a gorgeous dessert drink. Nuanced? Not really, but sweet tooth tequila fans won’t care. A- / $55