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Rated B+ Reviews Scotch Whisky Whiskey

Review: Benromach Origins, Batch #1 Golden Promise 1999

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We’re doing things a little backwards here. We’ve already reviewed Benromach’s second Origins series experimental Scotch whisky, and we’re backtracking to get to its first, Golden Promise 1999.

What is Golden Promise? A special type of barley developed in 1965, and one of the most popular in Scotch whiskeys. The Golden Promise used in this bottling was grown at Drumin Farm in Glenlivet. It’s considered one of the best barleys in the world and has won the prizes to prove it. This whiskey is made exclusively with this barley instead of a blend of lots of varieties, which is common.

The whisky is 9 years old, bottled in 2008. Otherwise the production is pretty par for single malt.

So, can you really “taste the barley” here? You can. As grain character goes, there’s plenty to go around. I’m not sure I know what raw (un-whiskyed) barley really tastes like, but I imagine it’s a lot like this. Big cereal character, with toasted grains, much like you’d get in a young American whiskey. Spicy and racy on the finish, it’s more convoluted than complicated.

Ultimately I think this whiskey feels a bit undercooked, and the grain character is too far in the foreground. More time in oak (possibly much more time) could temper some of that toast character, or a sherry cask finish might have rounded out the flavor profile.

But as an experiment, this is quite interesting: Pure grain, virtually no peat influence, and limited time in the barrel make for a curious whisky experience that’s worth a sample dram.

100 proof. (Batch #3 is shown below, but the bottles are nearly identical.)

B+ / $50 / benromach.com

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Christopher Null

Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content company.

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1 Comments

  1. Ben Matthews February 27, 2012

    Intersting to see Golden promise is still being used – Glengoyne prided themselves on only using Golden Promise up until just relatively few years ago – that mention on the bottle seems to have slipped now, and the tour guides don’t mention it – if no one’s using it, it’ll just fade into obscurity!

    Reply

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