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Review: Devils River Bourbon Whiskey



Devils River Whiskey is the brainchild of Mike Cameron, who serves as president of the Texas Distilled Spirits Association, and his new microdistilled bourbon brand comes to us from Dallas. The company, which just started selling in the state in April, is taking a largely traditional approach with this whiskey, distilling its mash (high-rye, with “dialed back corn”) in copper pot stills, aging in #4 char barrels, and blending the finished product with local water from the namesake Devils River. The whiskey is chill-filtered before bottling at 45% abv. No age statement is provided.

Let’s give it a whirl.

The nose is wood-forward, with ample barrel char, and while the wood is dominant, it’s not overpowering. The alcohol sears the nostrils in a manner that’s a bit harsh — frontier-style, perhaps — but also provides aromas of cherry juice and some spearmint.

The sawdust notes continue onto the palate, where notes of plum, butterscotch, and tart cherry emerge. Solid body; sharp and a bit burly. The finish remains moderately woody, with notes of cloves and a hint of sweet mesquite… but maybe that’s just the Texan in me coming vicariously forward through this rustically styled whiskey.

Would love to see this with some more barrel time on it.

90 proof.

B / $30 / devilsriverwhiskey.com

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Devils River Bourbon Whiskey
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Christopher Null

Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content company.

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  1. TrueTexasWhiskeyFan December 6, 2017

    A product that looks like its made here in Texas but is not.

    It is inherently shady and dishonest to apply for label approval in compliance with the law, in this case showing the state of distillation(Kentucky), Then to remove that same information from the label so as to manipulate the public into thinking they are buying a Texas Product.
    There is nothing wrong with sourcing whiskey, its the dishonest part that is the issue.
    It would appear Devil’s River bourbon is actively deceiving you to make you think you are buying and supporting Texas. Shame on you for deceiving people on their texas pride.

    1. Christopher Null December 6, 2017

      If this is true, Devils River is being awfully cagey with its labeling… I’ve reached out to the company for comment.

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