Review: Joseph Drouhin 2015 Chablis and 2014 Brouilly
Joseph Drouhin founded his first estate in Burgundy in 1880. Today the third generation is running the business — and grandson Robert has crafted a thriving pinot noir-and-chardonnay operation in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
Today, fourth-generation female winemaker, Véronique, is in charge of the operation in France, and it is two of her new releases that we consider at present.
2015 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Drouhin-Vaudon – Dazzling chardonnay from Drouhin, this wine is bright, golden, and easy-drinking, showcasing a depth of flavor that runs from golden raisins to crisp apples to lemon peel to, finally, a touch of marshmallow. Light vanilla notes weave through the finish, its gloriously toasty character recalling brioche. Delightful. A / $20
2014 Joseph Drouhin Brouilly Hospices de Belleville – 100% gamay. Structurally this Beaujolais-sourced wine is heavily Burgundian in style, with a meaty attack that leads to notes of cassis, cherries, and some herbal hints. Chewy and a bit brooding, with a long and savory finish. B+ / $19