Review: Madeira Wines of Miles – Rainwater, Dry 10 Years Old, and Rich 10 Years Old
We’ve covered Madeira wine extensively in past dispatches. Today we’re looking at three Madeira wines from Miles, which is part of the Blandy family’s Madeira Wine Company, a producer that has been producing wine on this Portuguese island since 1814.
Thoughts follow on three different styles of Miles’ Madeiras, all nonvintage (and two with generalized age statements).
NV Miles Rainwater Medium Dry Madeira – Delightful notes of orange blossoms and a modest sweetness give this a wonderful aperitif character, with a slight astringency and notes of rice wine vinegar. A hint of nutty walnut oil rounds out the sour character and gives the Madeira the lightest savory punch. A- / $17
Miles Dry Madeira 10 Years Old – This dry Madeira has a similar fruit component to the Rainwater, but with a more pronounced apple and pear character. Orange peel and some spice elements make this expression feel a bit more brooding, its more astringent notes held firmly in check. This comes at the cost of some of its liveliness, however. B+ / $29
Miles Rich Madeira 10 Years Old – Rich Madeira is the sweet stuff, and this expression is loaded with notes of maple syrup, sweetened coffee, and hints of chocolate — with a rich, raspberry jam note filling up the almost syrupy back end. B / $29