Review: 2018 Scaia Garganega/Chardonnay and Rosato
Scaia is a second label of Italy’s Tenuta Sant’Antonio, a project designed by its Castagnedi brothers to create “a new style of fresh wines as a contemporary interpretation of the great and traditional Valpolicella wines.” Below you’ll find thoughts on a pair of new releases from Scaia, a traditional white blend and a classically pink rosato.
A little back story, for those curious:
The name Scaia nods its hat to the local Veronese dialect and is a colloquialism for describing Parmigiano Reggiano crumbs that resemble the chips of chalky limestone soil in the vineyards. The winery is north-east of the city of Verona, close to the historic winemaking regions of Valpolicella and Soave on a ridge of hills close to the mountains. The driving force of Scaia is to use local grapes such as Corvina, Rondinella and Garganega, as well as international varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, to create something new in a region that’s steeped in tradition. Grapes are sourced from both estate vineyards and from long standing grape-grower partners throughout the region. The wines are made with sustainability at the heart of their production.
2018 Scaia Garganega/Chardonnay Trevenezie IGT – A surprisingly fresh delight, this blend of 55% garganega, 45% chardonnay offers an explosion of fruit flavors — fresh citrus, cantaloupe, pineapple, and mango — with a gentle spritz of flowery perfume across the top. The melon is particularly evident on the finish — though ample acidity ensures the wine never gets bogged down in sugar. Insane value. A- / $12
2018 Scaia Rosato Veneto IGT – Made from 100% rondinella, fermented and aged only in stainless steel. Big orange, grapefruit, and lemon citrus notes entwine with potpourri to create a powerful rose — but those florals are difficult to get around, ultimately giving the wine an intense perfume character that sits a bit heavily on the palate and can be somewhat off-putting when paired with the very tart body of the wine. B / $14