Review: 2016 Garofoli Podium, Macrina, and PianCarda
Garofoli is considered to be one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Italy, dating back to 1871 when Antonio Garofoli began producing wine for the local pilgrims who came to the famous church of Loreto. Today, Garofoli, on the border of Italy’s Adriatic Sea in Marche, makes a wide range of wines. The two we look at today are from the Castelli di Jesi and Rosso Conero areas. Two of these wines are from Garofoli’s best-known varietals: verdicchio.
Thoughts on three 2016 vintage releases follow.
2016 Garofoli Podium Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOCG – Quite dry up front, this wine offers curious notes of gooseberry and coconut, with a floral backbone offering a summery, pastoral construction that hints at straw and hay. Herbal notes and ample lemon peel (and leaf) give this a bright, if occasionally basic, finish. B / $25
2016 Garofoli Macrina Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC – Another 100% verdicchio, this one a bit brighter at first, with a stronger lemon note up front. That coconut/gooseberry character remains powerful as the palate builds, with a light almond character building as the finish approaches. More unctuous on the back end, and ultimately a bit simpler. B / $15
2016 Garofoli PianCarda Rosso Conero DOC – made form 100% montepulciano grapes, this value-oriented red offers a nose familiar to any Italian wine fan — lightly herbal with a significant balsamic edge, with a certain austerity to the fruit. The palate is surprisingly sweeter than expected, a cherry bomb dipped in balsamic vinegar and chocolate syrup. A bit basic for Italy, even at this price. B- / $15