Review: Wines of Three Sticks, 2020 Releases
We’ve got a full sextet of wines from Sonoma’s top-shelf Three Sticks on tap for today, two chardonnays and four pinot noirs.
2017 Three Sticks Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard – On first blush this wine hits the nose as an unadulterated oak and butter bomb, though there’s a tropical edge underneath that lifts things up, with notes of pineapple and mango, laced heavily with lemon, all evident. Big in body and boldly oaky on the finish, with an edge of vanilla and some baking spice. A solid example of the Cali chardonnay style. B+ / $55
2017 Three Sticks Chardonnay Russian River Valley Alana Vineyard – The sole Russian River wine in this roundup, its oak is restrained just so, letting notes of almond, sesame, grapefruit, and baked apple all slowly emerge from the buttery and woody haze, with hints of fig on the finish. A- / $75
2017 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Durell Vineyard – Rich with cherries and mixed red berries, this Durell Vineyard bottling has edges of black tea, licorice, and black walnuts, all whipped up into a fruity froth. Both tart and sweet, it deftly threads the needle between the two. A- / $70
2017 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard – Restrained at first, this wine opens up in time to pair a bold cherry body with a lightly floral character that adds some dazzle to an otherwise brooding experience. The finish integrates an earthy punch, complete with tea leaf and some licorice. B+ / $70
2017 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Walala Vineyard – A softer, approachable expression of pinot, this Sonoma Coast bottling is lush with raspberry and blueberry notes, with just a slight edge of chocolate to give it a soothing, sultry quality. Ample acidity gives the wine a briskness that delightfully complements the bright fruit, with hints of cherry emerging on the finish. A / $70
2017 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Sonoma Mountain Cuvee Eva Marie – Beautifully balanced with a lovely melange of fruit, earth, and spice on the nose and the palate. Notes of cola, chocolate, and a slight balsamic edge add plenty of nuance to a wine that’s already dripping with complexity. Again a blueberry note shows, though here it lingers forever on the finish. Best in the collection. A / $90