Review: The ImpEx Collection Edition Three – 4 Mezcal Expressions (2023 Releases)
Previously we brought you a look at the six indie-bottled whiskies in edition three of the ImpEx Collection — now we’re carrying on with the bottler’s first foray into mezcal. The line comprises four different expressions from two distillers, using four different subspecies of agave.
Let’s get into it.
The ImpEx Collection Mezcal Felipe Cortes, Bicuixe – From a strain of A. Karwinskii, distilled in a pot still in 2015 and rested in glass for 7 years. Great fruit on the nose here, banana and peach, with a smattering of coal dust on top. The smoke is mild but beautifully integrated on the creamy, fruity, almost tropical palate, studded with vanilla and enjoying a peppery kick on the finish. Very evenhanded when it comes to smokiness (that resting time may have done quite a bit here), this is outstanding and balanced, a nice little journey in a glass. 98.8 proof. A / $160
The ImpEx Collection Mezcal Victor Ramos, Coyote Verde – A mix of A. Potatorum and A. Karwinskii agave. Distilled in a pot still in 2021, rested in glass for one year. Sharper, smokier, with a spiced caramel note on the nose that feels distinctly Latin, almost candylike with a Tajin dusting. It’s more savory on the palate as well, with notes of succulents and green bell pepper mingling with apple and green banana notes. Moderately aggressive throughout, with a lingering whiff of paint thinner on the finish. 101.84 proof. B+ / $140
The ImpEx Collection Mezcal Felipe Cortes, Madrecuixe – Another strain of A. Karwinskii, distilled in 2017 and rested in glass for 5 years. Quite a bit of acetone character on the nose, with overtones of soot and overripe fruit. Things miraculously perk up quickly on the palate, the fruit settling into a smoky groove that features applesauce and spiced pears, and a slightly earthier quality that I can best describe as spice-dusted jicama. Chewy body, with a moderately smoky, lingering finish. 98 proof. B+ / $145
The ImpEx Collection Mezcal Victor Ramos, Tobalá Capón – From a strain of A. Potatorum, distilled in 2021, aged in glass for a year. Subdued on the nose, with grounded elements of turned earth, white pepper, and fresh agave. There’s a hot, fruitwood smoke here, and the palate showcases cinnamon apple, bright tangerine, banana, and mixed greenery. Soothing on the finish, with green agave punchier than expected. As with the Bicuixe expression, this one takes you on a fun little trip from savory to sweet and back again, touched with smoke throughout. 96.6 proof. A- / $140
The ImpEx Collection Mezcal Felipe Cortes, Bicuixe
$160
