Review: Wines of Aster, 2024 Releases
Bodegas Áster is a sub-brand of La Rioja Alta, focusing on offerings born in the Ribera del Duero region. These include the more traditionally styled Finca El Otero 2019 and the brand new contemporary El Espino 2020. An entry-level Crianza bottling is thrown in for good measure to round out the trio.
All three wines are made from 100% Tinta del País.
2019 Aster Finca el Otero Ribera del Duero – Rich and engaging, the core of currants and cherries underlays a massive chocolate and vanilla bomb that could easily be confused for a blue chip Napa cabernet. Ringed around the edges with baking spice, the wine avoids falling into an over-sweetened trap and allows touches of licorice and nutmeg to cling to the sides of the mouth. More chocolate on the finish tempers ample tannins which loosen their grip only with a good amount of airtime. Decant but serve at cellar temperature. A / $79
2020 Aster El Espino Ribera del Duero – This “contemporary” bottling is a more restrained and tannin-forward wine, leaning heavily on underripe blackberries en route to a core of licorice and a slightly gravelly character. Turned earth builds to keep any fruit elements from becoming dominant, though some acidic elements creep in as the finish develops. It never quite opens up — though a few years of cellar time might do wonders. B / $55
2020 Aster Ribera del Duero Crianza – This simpler wine threads the needle between the two above expressions, offering a healthy mix of fruit and wood, evoking notes of wet leather, anise, and fresh herbs. There’s ample tannin here, filtered through a moderating layer of gravelly earth and wet sand. The finish is lightly pruny with notes of black cherries and currants, soothed with a layer of milk chocolate. A simpler wine on the whole, but one which feels more readily approachable. A- / $25
2020 Aster Ribera del Duero Crianza
$25
