Review: Wines of 90+ Cellars, Summer 2024 Releases
Review: Wines of 90+ Cellars, Summer 2024 Releases
The wine world continues its march toward delivery and subscription services at a steady, measured pace. Since our last foray into the enterprise, a few have folded while others made it through the pandemic and other economic challenges with success and growth. 90+ Cellars provides a refreshingly unique angle in a market where surprises and flexibility are minimal. It’s a quarterly subscription, but consumers have the option of 3, 6, or 12 bottles per shipment. There are also additional perks such as free shipping, access to limited releases, discounts on non-wine club selections, and booklets filled with information on each wine. It’s also a négociant-based service. So while you aren’t entirely knowledgeable on a bottle’s origin there are usually clues where, with a bit of sleuthing, you can at least narrow the mystery down a bit.
Like many other subscription/online retailers, there’s a focus on price sensibility, with bottles as low as $12 each. However, much to 90+’s credit, there also appears to be an expansive variety of options to suit numerous pocketbooks, palates, and preferences. While we can’t speak to the overall quality of the company’s selections, we tasted three current releases to glean a small glimpse of the service’s potential.
2023 90+ Cellars Lot 196 Sancerre Rosé – A pinot noir-based Rosé from Sancerre is new for me, as I am accustomed to enjoying the region’s delightful Sauvignon Blancs. But this certainly holds the region’s reputation in high esteem. An enticing nose of raspberry and orange zest aromas gives way to a balanced palate of white blossom, citrus fruit, and a slight accentuation of minerality. It is refreshing and complex enough to be enjoyed solo or with a pairing of seafood or a brunch menu on the savory side. A- / $36
2023 90+ Cellars Lot 137 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley – A brooding expression of Pinot Noir, with black tea and touches of campfire smoke and cedar running throughout. Red fruit and cinnamon dominate the palate, and moderate acidity and velvety tannins support the lingering finish. While enjoyable, it can be a bit brutish and would be well-served to enjoy an additional year or two of aging before opening, allowing for some time to hopefully sort itself out and present the elegance commonly associated with Willamette Valley. B+ / $20
2023 90+ Cellars Lot 174 Albariño Ria Baixas – An Albariño emanating from the northwest region of Spain, this is incredibly approachable, with mild and pleasantly sweet with notes of peach and pineapple running throughout. Soft minerality and lime zest appear on the palate but never disrupt the balance set by the tropical fruit. Incredibly gentle but not to the point of boredom, and one for more casual fans of white wine to consider. A- / $17
It should be noted that our package did not arrive with printed notes, so we cannot speak to how well-researched the documentation is for each wine. However, the shipment did arrive in a timely fashion with safe packaging to avoid breaking or spillage. Although seasoned wine drinkers may opt to trust their instincts and judgment at the local shop, 90+ Cellars is an incredibly smart option for those seeking an introductory concierge to the expansive options the world of wine affords newcomers. Service rating: A-
2023 90+ Cellars Lot 196 Sancerre Rosé
$36
