Review: Midleton Very Rare 40th Anniversary Ruby Edition

Review: Midleton Very Rare 40th Anniversary Ruby Edition

For ages, Midleton has stood pretty much at the top of the Irish whiskey tower, commanding incredible sums for some very rare whiskeys, a few of which we’ve managed to taste. All of that pales in comparison to the brand’s latest release, which celebrates its 40th anniversary. Midleton Very Rare Ruby Edition has a list price of €20,000 — and yes, that’s euros, not dollars.

What’s in the bottle matters, though at this price probably less than you’d think. As with most Irish, it’s a blend of single pot still and single grain Irish whiskeys — only these have been aged for up to four decades before finishing in a ruby Port cask. Per the brand, “Only the most exceptional and rarest liquids from the Midleton store house have been selected and masterfully married to form the celebratory expression.” As one would hope.

Unbelievably we got a sample to check out. A small sample, but still. Let’s try it.

Irish can be quite delicate, but this whiskey pulls no punches, offering a rich mélange of tea leaves, polished wood, and dried flowers on the nose. A touch of burnt marshmallow adds a layer of subtle smokiness, but also a sweet element, an elusive fruity quality that eventually lands on burnt orange peel. Lots of floral notes endure; in the glass, they’re eventually hard to shake. There’s a lot going on here, and it’s all engaging — but the level of alcohol keeps the nose just a hair on the harsh side.

On the palate, a considerably different experience awaits. Here the fruit comes first, orange marmalade layered with juicy raisins. A delightful sweet tea character emerges soon after, followed by honey and vanilla. The floral elements from the nose are present but fade more into the background, adding a light but lovely dusting of racy, spicy perfume. On the finish, the whiskey adds layers of nutty almonds, a grind of cinnamon, concluding with a light touch of tannic oak. Despite the threat of heat on the nose, it’s very easy to enjoy at full strength on the palate, sans water.

Gorgeous and well balanced, the flavor explosion wholly makes up for the slow start on the nose, and the dram is incredibly hard to put down. I probably needn’t say it’s the best few sips of Midleton I’ve ever tasted. I’ll take another, barkeep!

106.2 proof.

A / €20,000

Midleton Very Rare 40th Anniversary Ruby Edition

€20,000
9.5

Rating

9.5/10

Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content creation company. As well, he is the author of two novels, Half Mast and The Cul-de-sac.

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