Review: Row 94 Bourbon
In 1994, Dierks Bentley moved to Nashville to chase the dream of finding a home on Music Row. Bentley has certainly found success and fame as a country music singer, but September 2024 brought a new venture with the launch of Row 94 Kentucky Straight Bourbon. The country music icon transitioned from singing about whiskey to having his own brand of Kentucky bourbon whiskey. Celebrity spirits often come with apprehension due to a record of inferior products that seek to sell based on star power rather than outright quality. But Bentley aimed to produce a celebrity bourbon that he truly enjoys sipping rather than an expensive product that treads on his name alone.
Bentley works with Green River Distilling to produce Row 94. Barrels tabbed for Row 94 start much like the standard barrels utilized by Green River for their branding. The mashbill consists of 70% corn, 21% winter rye, and 9% six-row malted barley. Distillate enters the barrel with a #4 char at 120 proof and waits for time to work its magic over the next 4 years. Row 94 is bottled with at least 4 years of maturation while barrels destined to become Green River are bottled at an average age of 5 years. Bentley’s bourbon comes with a year less of maturation, similar proof, and a $5 price premium in comparison to Green River. Is Row 94 worth the dollars and attention of whiskey enthusiasts, when Green River Kentucky Straight Bourbon is readily available? Let’s find out if consumers are in for some whiskey tears with this latest celebrity spirit.
The gentle aroma of honey graham crackers immediately climb from the glass to greet ginger. As the glass airs, the scent of root beer arrives and lingers, along with brown sugar. Row 94 packs an inviting nose that is distinct from Green River. While Green River emphasizes stronger baking spices with black licorice much more in the background, Row 94 provides deeper black licorice and sassafras, creating the illusion of a quality root beer.
Prominent black licorice and buttercream frosting lead the way on the palate. Progressing to the midpalate, Row 94 displays nutmeg and mint. The mouthfeel offers a medium viscosity, marginally less than Green River. The finish affords notes that are more aligned with Green River by way of tobacco, black cherry, and honey. However, Row 94 closes with a stronger note of black licorice that Green River doesn’t offer.
It’s fascinating to experience the differences between Row 94 and Green River based on blending and potential differences in warehouses. The two bourbons share common notes, such as black licorice, yet licorice is far more prominent in Row 94 from nose to finish. Green River is overall a little more well-balanced, but if you enjoy black licorice, Row 94 is going to be of great interest. With a price of $40, Dierks Bentley’s Row 94 is far more than a younger and inferior Green River. Rather, it’s an affordable bottle that deserves a place on the shelf sitting next to its big brother.
94 proof.
B+ / $40 / row94whiskey.com
Row 94 Bourbon
$40
