Review: Deanston 18 Years Old and 2002 Organic American Oak 20 Years Old
Highland single malt producer Deanston‘s first release hit shelves in 1974. In 2000, they began distilling what the brand refers to as “the world’s first certified organic Scotch whisky,” as accredited by the Organic Food Federation.
In late 2024, Deanston announced new American distribution of their core 18 year-old single malt, in addition to a limited, vintage-dated 20 year-old bottling of their organic single malt from 2002.
Let’s dive in and see how each tastes!
Deanston 18 Years Old — Available with regular stateside distribution for the first time, Deanston’s core-range 18 year Scotch is fully matured in ex-bourbon barrels. Light ocean salinity leads on the nose, followed by seasoned oak staves and a little dry sherry. (Though to be clear, there were no ex-sherry casks used here.) A mix of herbaceous and floral notes follow, including drying hay, wintergreen, birch bark, sassafras root, fennel seed, roasted cacao, and toasted coconut flakes. The first sip is incredibly light, and it took my palate a couple more tastes to really acclimate. Buttered cornbread, saltine crackers, caramel popcorn, and dried lemon peel form the bulk of a palate, which gradually leans more toward citrus over time. The mouthfeel is a touch too thin, leading to a finish that’s balanced in flavor — sweet, citrus, herbal, and oak — but gone a little too quickly. 92.6 proof. B+ / $154
Deanston 2002 Organic American Oak 20 Years Old — All liquid in this cask-strength release was distilled from 100 percent organic Scottish barley, which was processed in an organic malting facility. The whisky was matured in “selected organic re-charred American Oak casks.” The release size is 2,826 bottles worldwide, and the brand claims it’s one of the oldest organic Scotches on the market. The nose kicks off with cinnamon-infused simple syrup, a nearly effervescent hit of spice that tickles the nostrils all the way through. There’s a bold combo of scents here, and it’s easy enough to sense the punch from two decades in re-charred barrels. Crushed and fermented grapes and preserved pears waft through shortly thereafter. After the spice settles down slightly, lemon oil and oven-roasted almonds take over. The final act on a rich and multi-act nose brings a hint of citrus-scented cleaning solution carried by an ethanol quality that fully acts like its near-50% abv. Chardonnay dominates the first sip, followed by dry apple cider, white grape juice, honeysuckle, and an ever-present pop of baking spice. The palate waffles between dry spice and sweet spice, never quite settling into any one rhythm, but balanced enough to keep you interested. A final sweet note leads into a finish full of ripe — but still dry — tropical fruits, including pineapple and cream of coconut, coupled with a liberal sprinkle of grated cinnamon. In a word: great. 99.4 proof. A / $299 (700ml)
Deanston 2002 Organic American Oak 20 Years Old
$299
