Located in the Indianapolis area, West Fork Whiskey is a rapidly expanding distillery. West Fork is actively distilling and bottling whiskey under the West Fork brand, but it entered the scene with sourced Old Hamer line. The Hamer name is new to most, but Hugh Hamer is a significant name in the history of Indiana whiskey. Located in what is now Spring Mill State Park in Lawrence County, Indiana, the Bullitt family built a grist mill that was completed in 1817 and is still operational today. The Bullitt family is associated with the earliest settlement of Louisville and Jefferson County, Kentucky. As a means to utilize excess grain from the grist mill, a distillery was erected in 1823 and Old Hamer Whiskey was established in 1825. Hugh and Thomas Hamer owned the mill from 1831 until Hugh died in 1872. Hugh Hamer is buried in the Hamer Cemetery in Spring Mill State Park should you want to pay your respects.

West Fork Whiskey has revived the legacy of Hugh Hamer with the Old Hamer and Hugh Hamer bourbon lines. The growing distillery keeps everything in the Hoosier state as they source whiskey from MGP in Lawrenceburg that is aged and bottled in Indiana. In a detour from typical bourbons, Hamer utilizes MGP’s mashbill comprised of 99% yellow corn and 1% malted barley. True to tradition with most MGP whiskey, the low wine hits at 130 proof and the high wine at 135 proof before entering the barrel at 120 proof. Hamer ages in barrels from Speyside Cooperage with a #4 char.

West Fork Whiskey was gracious enough to provide samples of Old Hamer Cask Strength Straight Bourbon, Old Hamer Single Barrel 100 Proof Straight Bourbon, and Hugh Hamer Small Batch Double Oaked Straight Bourbon. (West Fork utilizes the Hugh Hamer branding for bourbons with secondary maturation.) Most whiskey enthusiasts associate the 99% corn mashbill with well-aged light whiskey, but how does it translate to bourbon in the age range of 4 to 6 years old? Let’s find out!

Old Hamer Cask Strength Bourbon – The cask strength offering is bottled with at least 4 years of aging. The nosing experience launches with prominent notes of toasted coconut and ripe plums, accentuated by butterscotch candies. As the the nose develops, the cloying aroma of candy corn adds a sugary heaviness that detracts from the balance, leading to a bouquet that is a bit too sweet for my preference. Leading the way on the palate, black cherry is followed by heavily coated honey-roasted peanuts. Vanilla surfaces on the midpalate along with kettle corn. The sweet sensations foster a medium viscosity mouthfeel. As the finish advances, sticky molasses find a surprising burst of Big Red gum and a fading plum note. But as the finish lingers, the profile falls apart as a plasticky quality develops and diminishes the overall experience. The unique mashbill leads to an overly sweet profile that can have its place, but this cask strength offering lost me at the end. 118.2 proof. Reviewed: Batch #32. B- / $50

Old Hamer Single Barrel 100 Proof Straight Bourbon -The 100 proof single barrel offering is aged for at least 4 years and is distinct from the private selection single barrels at cask strength. Debuting on the nose, corn pudding joins caramel. Allowing a few moments to air, candy corn and vanilla mingle with cinnamon while the sweetness feels more restrained compared to the Small Batch Cask Strength. Kicking off the palate, cinnamon and allspice are followed by marshmallow cream. The profile is rather simple, but still approachable and enjoyable. Hitting with a medium viscosity mouthfeel, Single Barrel 100 Proof offers an easy-drinking experience. Heading to the finale, cinnamon fades into brown sugar and light caramel. Experienced bourbon drinkers might not find enough complexity in this bottle, but it’s a serviceable option for those just cutting their teeth. 100 proof. B / $40

Hugh Hamer Double Oaked Small Batch Straight Bourbon – Double Oaked is initially aged for at least 4 years before being entered into a second new Speyside barrel sporting a #4 char for an additional 1to 2 years of maturation. The nose is immediately different and superior to the other two bottles, with toasted almond and black cherry layered with cinnamon spice. As air interacts with the whiskey, the unmistakable aroma of root beer wafts upward. While the other two bottles skew sweet, Double Oak offers a nose with balance and depth. As with the nose, the palate quickly differentiates itself from its unfinished counterparts. Cinnamon and root beer promptly express themselves, complemented by notes of prunes and burnt brown sugar. The finish is clean with a hint of peppermint balanced by memories of Jones Soda Black Cherry as cinnamon and brown sugar shut things down. Double Oak comes with depth and balance, and a minimal indication of the kind of character typically expected from whiskey with such a high corn content. For those skeptical of the 99% corn mashbill, Double Oak might cause you to reconsider. 103 proof. A- / $60

Hugh Hamer Double Oaked Small Batch Straight Bourbon

$60

9

Rating

9.0/10

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