Review: CR&F Aguardente Vínica Velha XO
Even if you aren’t familiar with Aguardente Vinica by name, you have probably tried it before: It is the Portuguese brandy used to fortify Port wines. Not many Aguardente Vinicas make their way to the U.S., which is a shame since they can be delicious and warrant attention. They range from unaged expressions to XO, and they can also be Aguardente Velha, which is brandy that has been aged in ex-Port casks, bringing everything full circle. The one we are trying today is produced by Carvalho Ribeiro & Ferreira, and it is a brilliant example of a well-aged Aguardente Velha. It is a blend of brandies made with grapes drawn from the Vinho Verde region which were well-aged in French oak previously used to age port. Let’s pour a glass and give it a try.
Having spent long years in ex-Port casks, the brandy pours a deep garnet color. The nose is rich with brandy notes and is laced with Port: raisins, dates, black cherry, and leather. Very nice, but it is on the palate where this brandy really shows its quality. Raisin, date, and black cherry notes mingle playfully with leather, Coca-Cola, and gentle oak spice and tannins to provide complex flavor and a big, balanced, silky mouthfeel that oozes with character. The finish is long, introducing a touch of caramel as the Port notes linger. This is a contemplative brandy that deserves time to enjoy. If you haven’t tried Aguardente Vinica Velha before, this is a bottle that will make you a fan.
80 proof.
A / $145 (700ml)
CR&F Aguardente Vínica Velha XO
$145
