Review: Mutiny Island Vodka
Mutiny Island Vodka debuted in 2017 on St. Croix. After living in the Caribbean for some time, founder Chef Todd Manley discovered the islands were not producing enough of their own food and were relying heavily on imports. After hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017, Manley found himself on a mission to create a sustainable agricultural product that could also benefit the environment and create jobs and food security for the community. Manley’s business partner suggested they try cultivating breadfruit, whose fruit comes from a flowering tree that is in the mulberry and jackfruit family. Manley and his business partner tapped award-winning distiller Chris Richardson of Chesapeake Bay Distillery to help them perfect a recipe, and Mutiny Island Vodka, the world’s first breadfruit vodka, was born.
Mutiny Island Vodka distills breadfruit for all of their products. Breadfruit is one of the highest yielding food plants and requires limited care. Breadfruit trees sequester large amounts of CO2 from the atmosphere and return more of it back into the soil than commercially farmed seasonal crops. The brand is involved in several breadfruit initiatives and operates a zero waste facility. As someone who reports on distilleries and reviews spirits regularly, it is encouraging to see sustainability taking on such importance to spirits producers.
Mutiny Island Vodka offers three products, a standard vodka and three infusions. Today we are tasting the standard vodka.
Not uncommon for vodka, the nose doesn’t offer much in the way of aroma. I detected mostly aromas of ethanol and a bit of sweetness. The first sip reveals a noticeably full and silky texture, viscous and full of character. A clean, subtly briny flavor is present. The finish is slightly sweet and clean — and the texture lends to the character of the vodka, giving it a luxurious feeling. The most one can expect from a quality vodka is an appealing texture, some body, and a hint of flavor. This vodka checks all the boxes.
Because of the character, I would recommend this vodka for sipping on ice to those who enjoy vodka on its own. Its neutral profile suits many cocktails, while the hint of brine makes it ideal for savory drinks. The velvety texture is a splendid choice for a savory martini and complements dry vermouth beautifully. The brine is a nice juxtaposition for a lemon drop or an espresso martini.
In 2020, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) amended the US federal standard of identity of vodka, removing the phrase “to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.” The new definition still stipulates that the words “neutral spirit” must appear on the label. I hope that vodka produced and sold in the U.S. will mature as a category and develop more character and a sense of region and flavor, as do many vodka expressions found in other parts of the world. Mutiny Island Vodka seems to be in line with this new wave of vodka brands, offering more character and substance than expected.
80 proof.
B+ / $27 / mutinyislandvodka.com
Mutiny Island Vodka
$27
