Review: 2009 Cantine Florio Marsala Vergine Reserva
Review: 2009 Cantine Florio Marsala Vergine Reserva
Marsala is rarely sipped by itself in the U.S., most often appearing as the cooking wine used to make veal or chicken marsala. But like Port and sherry, Marsala is a fortified wine that can be crafted and aged to be distinctive and enjoyable on its own. Today we sample the highest classification of Marsala, a Vergine Reserva, which must be at least ten years old and is crafted to be sipped. It is made with 100% Grillo grapes grown on the coastal strip and inland of the municipality of Marsala in Sicily, spending 13 years in small oak casks. We previously reviewed a much younger expression from the same producer, Florio. Let’s give it a try.
Well-aged, this Marsala pours golden brown in the glass. The nose is deep and complex, revealing the lengthy time it spent in wood, with rich caramel, gentle oak, golden raisin, and a touch of salinity all intermingling beautifully. I was really quite taken by the aroma, which deserves time to enjoy on its own. Taking a sip, the palate is quite dry, but rich with caramel and bright raisin notes. The wine also presents lemon citrus, a touch of brine, and bright acidity, which contributes to the wine’s liveliness and complexity after lengthy aging. The finish is long and delicious as the caramel, lemon, salt, and raisin notes slowly fade.
Put simply, this is the best Marsala I have tried to date. Fans of Madeira and those who already like Marsala should seek this out immediately, while fans of sherry and Port should seriously consider giving it a try. I’m impressed.
A / $75 / cantineflorio.it
2009 Cantine Florio Marsala Vergine Reserva
$75
