Review: El Buho Mezcal – Jabali, Mexicano, and Tepeztate
We recently re-reviewed El Buho Mezcal Espadin to see how it had changed since we first tried it 12 years ago. Now we’re back with the rest of the line of mezcals El Buho, including one made with Jabali, which is a variety that rarely makes it to the U.S. These are more adventurous varieties of mezcal than Espadin, and they carry higher price tags — but with those comes more distinctive character and flavor. Let’s give them a try.
El Buho Mezcal Jabali – Jabali is reportedly a difficult agave to work with, and there are few opportunities to try mezcal made with Jabali in the U.S. When it is made well, however, it is delicious and distinctive. On the nose, this mezcal presents enjoyable notes of lime, orange, jasmine perfume, grass, and gentle smoke. On the palate, however, it goes even further, fairly exploding with flavor. Bold notes of lime, orange, and jasmine hit first, lightly sweet and nicely integrated, followed by a mouthful of fresh cracked black pepper. Grass and a touch of smoke join in as the range of flavors slowly dissipate. This is a lovely and distinctive sipping mezcal. 100 proof. A / $128 [BUY IT NOW FROM FROOTBAT]
El Buho Mezcal Mexicano – Right off the bat, this is an unusual and exciting mezcal. Foremost on the nose and palate are bold notes of candied jalapeno: spicy, sweet, and delicious. The spiciness might turn some people off, but if a little heat is in your wheelhouse, you’re going to love it. I really enjoyed this bold start, and with some patience, additional depth can be found. There is also lovely grassiness, pine, green pepper, black pepper, and just the slightest whisper of smoke. The finish is long as the aromatic notes slowly fade. This is a brilliant sipping mezcal and priced accordingly, but I can’t help wonder how great it would taste in a margarita. When my glass was empty, I was sad I didn’t have more to find out. 94 proof. A / $106
El Buho Mezcal Tepeztate – Tepeztate is an agave that typically grows wild and requires a lengthy amount of time to mature. The payoff is bold flavor and a unique finished product. This one shows big lime, grass, andsalt, then gentle smoke, and some barnyard notes on the nose. The palate follows suit and is even bolder. I was impressed by how well the flavors stood out yet also harmonized. Lightly sweet lime dances with salt, grass, and black pepper as wisps of smoke peek through. The finish is very long and delightful as the collection of flavors recede. 96 proof. A / $104