Review: Garrison Brothers Laguna Madre Bourbon (2024)
Review: Garrison Brothers Laguna Madre Bourbon (2024)
Garrison Brothers’ Laguna Madre release is its most prized whiskey, and three years ago Monica took our first look at the product, followed by a look at the 2022 version by Frank a year later. The annually released, limited edition is special because of its use of French Limousin oak as a finishing wood, in addition to the more typical American oak. 3000 bottles were produced, an increase over the sub-2000 bottles normally released each year.
Laguna Madre is a hefty eight years old, spending four years in new white American oak barrels, then four more years in Limousin oak. That hasn’t changed since Frank covered the whiskey in 2022 (though the price has ticked up, to $349). Your outlay does at least have a charitable angle: “The 2024 Laguna Madre release is also helping spread the mission and fundraising needs for non-profit organization FlatsWorthy, through in-package messaging and special events support. FlatsWorthy, Inc., is a coalition of diverse anglers practicing mutual respect while sharing the same resource. Garrison Brothers’ Master Distiller Donnis Todd and his son are proud supporters of FlatsWorthy and their work.” (So: A fishing-related charity.)
With all that set up, it’s time to tuck in. Thoughts follow.
Rarely is a Texas bourbon, particularly Garrison Brothers, shy about anything, and Laguna Madre is no exception. That big lumberyard quality is quick to hit the nose, but it’s countered by notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate, and a soulful prune character that adds just the right amount of sweetness. The whiskey is smoky, with plenty of punchy creosote and chimney ash character, fading with time in glass to approximate burnt pie crust and well-toasted baking spices.
The palate strays minimally, with intense notes of coffee and chocolate leading the way, all filtered through a persistent note of sawn lumber and crushed cocoa pods. A sweet butterscotch note adds a more fanciful element, pairing nicely with notes of vanilla custard and, digging deeper, lighter elements of ginger, raspberry jam, and fresh, black figs. Providing time to rest in the glass is a great idea here, the finish rumbling its way toward a bold outro that Frank absolutely nailed: Flat Dr. Pepper.
Perhaps there’s a reason why my favorite cocktail when visiting the bar at Garrison Brothers is their frozen Dr. Pepper, spiked with Garrison Bros. Small Batch. Imagine the decadence if you made it with Laguna Madre…
101 proof.
A- / $349 / garrisonbros.com [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]
Garrison Brothers Laguna Madre Bourbon (2024)
$349
