Review: Wines of Famiglia Pasqua, 2021 Releases
We’ve spent time with the Veneto-based Famiglia Pasqua in the past, and for 2021 we have a lineup of four new releases, representing a range of varietals and styles. Let’s dig in.
2020 Famiglia Pasqua Prosecco Rose Extra Dry DOC – The only miss in this collection, and it’s a minor one. A rather doughy, indistinct wine, the lightly floral and strawberry-doused expression lands on the palate with an overly sweet character, a sugary quality that lingers well into the finish — before ultimately taking a somewhat green, bitter turn. Rose Prosecco is often a tough proposition; this one never finds balance. B / $18
2020 Famiglia Pasqua 11 Minutes Rose – The newest edition to the Pasqua collection is a rose blended from Corvina (50%), Trebbiano (25%), Syrah (15%), and Carménère (10%). Heavily floral and built around a core of citrus, the acid-forward wine is imminently drinkable, fading to a gentle peach character as the finish builds. Before you have a chance to think about it, your glass is empty, the fruit and acidity creating a delightful sense of balance. Rose is often a take-it-or-leave-it situation, but this bright delight offers all the pleasures of summer in a lightly pink glass. A / $19
2019 Famiglia Pasqua Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT – A white wine made largely from lightly dried garganega grapes, this semi-sweet offering kicks off with golden raisins before venturing into more floral territory, offering notes of orange blossoms, some coconut, and a touch of nougat. The slight residual sugar tempers the acidity here, which tends to help this wine shine more brightly when paired with food. Otherwise it tends to gum up a bit. Note: The graffiti-inspired label makes the wine’s name look like “Passimento.” B+ / $16
2016 Famiglia Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG – We reviewed the 2015 expression of this wine last year — an Amarone made in the classical appassimento style, where grapes are harvested by hand and left to dry for months — to great acclaim. I’m happy to report that the 2016 is every bit as exciting, the blend of Corvina (65%), Rondinella (25%), Corvinone (5%), and Negrara (5%) grapes offering a classic rendition of this unique style, loaded with dried cherries, blackberries, and a pleasant tea leaf character. Very gentle with its iconic raisin notes, the supple wine presents as lightly sweet, dusted with dark chocolate and a bright reprise of cherries on the finish. Let this one linger and it evolves, becoming more austere in the glass over time. A great value for Amarone, also. A / $50