Review: Giffard Pamplemousse

Short on grapefruits? Consider a grapefruit liqueur if you’re in a pinch, particularly a luxe expression like this one from the always on-point Giffard, made from steam-distilled pink grapefruit peels. The nose of Giffard’s Pamplemousse perfectly evokes sharp, sour Ruby Red grapefruit sitting on a Sunday morning brunch buffet, ready for digging into with mouth-puckering…

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Review: Rabbit Hole Tenniel

Rabbit Hole is turning 10 years old this year. These distilleries sure do grow up fast. To celebrate the milestone, the brand is releasing a special limited-edition bourbon dubbed Tenniel. The moniker may sound like an Old English word for tenth anniversary, but it’s actually a tribute to John Tenniel, the original illustrator for Alice’s…

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Review: 2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Dutton Ranch

Fans of California chardonnays won’t have much to complain about with this new release from Sonoma-Cutrer, a Russian River Valley offering that hits all the high points of the wine: rich vanilla, gooseberry, and lemon curd, all filtered through elements of saline and minerals. There’s something of a greatest hits of California chardonnay going on…

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At NYC’s Sakagura, Shochu Is Poised to Explode in the U.S.

While sake has long been more familiar to American palates, shochu is finally ready for its moment in the sun. Unlike sake, which is a brewed rice wine, shochu is Japan’s native distilled spirit, with remarkable utility for consumption neat, on the rocks, in cocktails, and beyond. And at a proof point normally hovering between…

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Review: Rums of Rolling Fork: Fortuitous Union and Single Cask Barbados 9 Years Old

Started in 2017 by Turner Wathen and Jordan Morris, independent bottler Rolling Fork is named for a famous, but now shuttered, Kentucky bourbon distillery. But Rolling Fork isn’t making whiskey and doesn’t plan to. Instead, the label sources additive-free rums from around the world and finishes them in whiskey casks. They appear to be doing…

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Review: 2020 Ancient Peaks Renegade Santa Margarita Ranch

A blend of 67% syrah, 27% petit verdot, and 6% malbec. The syrah dominates, for better or worse, giving the wine a smoky, meaty texture, becoming a bit chalky in body as it builds in glass and on the tongue. Both bitter and a bit sour, there’s a heavy intensity here that isn’t always agreeable,…

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Review: Griffo Distillery Still Waldos Single Malt Whiskey with Hops

Griffo Distillery can be found in Petaluma, California. Around the corner lies Lagunitas Brewing, one of the kings of the craft beer scene, especially on the west coast. Lagunitas’s most prized brew is The Waldos, a triple IPA that is released as a highly limited one-off each April. (I’ve had it once. It was delicious.)…

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Tasting Report: Virginia Spirits Expo 2023

Now in its second year, the Virginia Spirits Expo is expanding to include four different events across the state. I attended the first of these in Charlottesville over the summer where more than two dozen Virginia distillers were on hand to share their labors of love. It was unseasonably warm at Ix Art Park that…

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