Fee Brothers Old Fashion Bitters vs. Angostura Bitters
Artisanal bitters are all the rage these days, with no producer more hallowed than Fee Brothers. (I rely on their Orange Bitters religiously, so I’m a devotee.)
But I’d never tried Fee’s “Old Fashion Aromatic” Bitters until recently. Angostura’s always worked for me, so why change?
Well today I finally put Fee Old Fashion head to head against its forebear. Flavored with Angostura bark and other aromatics, it’s a clear homage to Angostura, and the aroma on its own is decidedly similar. The big difference: A cinnamon/allspice aroma that’s strong in the Fee but minimal in Angostura.
The cinnamon/allspice character follows through in mixed drinks pretty strongly. It was noticeably present in a Champagne Cocktail (a rather loathsome drink, really), and even stronger in a rye Manhattan. It also sweetened the Manhattan considerably vs. a version I made with Angostura. In the case of the Manhattan, I liked both renditions, but ultimately preferred the one made with Angostura by quite a margin, which was a more balanced drink that hung on to its rye core and wasn’t overwhelmed by spices.
Both bitters are good, but ultimately the original Angostura still has stands as a bar essential. The Fee Brothers will stick around for experimentation — I’m sure there are cocktails out there where it will outclass Angostura, I just haven’t gotten to them yet — but for now it plays second fiddle.