Review: Grand Mayan Ultra Aged Tequila

Review: Grand Mayan Ultra Aged Tequila

Grand Mayan Tequila — which comes in distinctive, squat ceramic bottles — returns with its newest expression, formally known as Grand Mayan Ultra Aged Limited Release. It’s a full extra anejo and more, aged five years in oak. Curiously, it’s billed as using Central-Highland Blue Weber agave, while Grand Mayan’s prior expressions were made with Lowlands agave. Sure enough, this expression was made in a different distillery and carries a different NOM.

Let’s give it a whirl.

On the nose, there’s an immediate rush of pepper — black pepper and some cayenne, lightly smoky. There’s no sweetness of note, which is a real surprise considering how long this has been aged. Earthy and pastoral, this is as savory an extra anejo as I’ve ever encountered.

The palate brightens up a little, but mainly uses notes of lemon peel and a touch of saline to lift up the earthiness of the tequila. It doesn’t really last, and soon things retreat to those savory elements — toasted wood, leather, turned earth, and bell pepper. If I’d had this blind I might have guessed it was a reposado, and a young one at that, though the color does match the “ultra aged” descriptor. Time in glass allows a touch of sweetness to emerge in the form of brown butter and a slightly earthy honey element, which helps lift the finish just a bit. On the whole, however, denser, more brooding qualities rule.

If you shy away from sweeter tequilas, even in extra anejo expressions, this may be a bottling to check out.

80 proof. NOM 1459.

B+ / $106 / gmtequila.com 

Grand Mayan Ultra Aged Tequila

$106
8.5

Rating

8.5/10

A veteran journalist, the author of four books, a published poet, and an award-winning winemaker, Christopher Null has more than 25 years of experience writing about wine and spirits. He founded Drinkhacker in 2007. He also writes regularly about the science of booze for WIRED and is an occasional contributor to ADI's Distiller magazine. He has been a judge for both the American Distilling Institute Judging of Craft Spirits and Whiskies of the World spirits competitions and often works as a consultant, developing formal tasting notes for spirits brands around the world.

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