Review: Loco Tequila Blanco and Puro Corazon
I’m the first to agree that a name like “Loco Tequila” does not exactly connote a handcrafted, luxury, sipping experience. But in a Zoom with the brand’s creador Beto Navarro, he explains that “Loco” was intended to refer to the mad geniuses of the world and not wild days taking shots with salt and lime. More Mozart, less Senor Frog’s.
Loco is a newish brand slowly making its way to the states. It’s built around sustainable harvesting of Lowlands agave, traditional production methods, minimal filtration, and absolutely no additives, all of which Navarro insists are key to avoid stripping the flavor out of your tequila, as is common with many products on the market. Even the yeast is proprietary.
Navarro says his goal to make a tequila that “tastes like agave,” and in our tasting of his Loco Tequila Blanco, I’d say that was mission accomplished. The nose of the spirit is rich and peppery, a clearly vibrant core of fresh greenery evoking notes of aloe and mint, with a healthy note of roasted vegetables providing a savory, umami layer. Some sweetness emerges with time in glass, but it’s balanced by notes of red pepper and a pinch of creosote.
The palate is considerably sweeter than expected, which is what Navarro says you should expect: Cooked agave has flavors of vanilla and caramel, unless it gets filtered out. It’s still plenty peppery and layered with notes of fresh-cut grass, palm-smacked herbs, and some anise. The caramel is hard to shake, and it becomes more intense as the experience unfolds. The finish features a drop of lemon oil, a hint of sesame. Outstanding stuff, and not at all loco. 80 proof. A / $135
Also tasted in brief was Loco Tequila Puro Corazon (I did not review the reposado), which is made from only the hearts of the agave pinas, as the name suggests. The overall character is surprisingly different, with a much more fruit-heavy nose that evokes lemon, mandarins, and a stronger mint component. Aromatic vanilla is punchy and complements a floral character on both nose and palate, which evolves as a creamy, almost chewy experience. Hints of coconut on the finish. Altogether outstanding but very unusual for a blanco. 80 proof. A / $349
NOM 1123.
Loco Tequila Blanco
$135
